Maroubra Beach Walk – Malabar to Maroubra

This is the finale of our La Perouse to Maroubra beach hiking saga. If you are catching up, read this first, or if you like to start at the end, here is part 2.

Other posts in our Walking Sydney’s Coast series:

La Perouse to Malabar Beach
Maroubra to Coogee Beach
Coogee to Bondi Beach
Bondi to Watson’s Bay
Watson’s Bay and South Head
Spit Bridge to Manly

After refueling at Malabar beach, we walked through car-park along Fishermans Rd along the Malabar Wastewater Treatment Plant. The guidebook (which we continued to follow, despite it’s misguided optimism thus far) casually mentioned at this point that “this [road] becomes a path that meets a wire fence, follow the foot track along its seaside edge”. We took this advice skeptically as “foot tracks along the seaside edge” previously meant dodging golfballs. At this point, we felt like the hike could only improve since we survived the last of the golf courses.

Fatefully, a hiker, or more likely a rock fisherman, artfully cut the wire fence to allow for a large person to enter the headlands. Ignoring the rusty “Contaminated area, there may be asbestos…” signs, we confidently strode along a well-used dirt path, with the notion that the signs are out of date. Even when the shrubs and palm fronds formed a wall around us, we felt comfortably UN-tresspasser-like. Stumbling upon several rock fishermen reinforced our resolve, and made us feel less like intruders.

We loved exploring this section of the hike because the landscape continuously evolved in an almost constant contrast with itself. We squeezed through narrow patches of tall grass and shrubs, and immediately found ourselves climbing large sandstone boulders, smoothed from years of coastal impact. Then the path underfoot turned to red gravel, and next bright white sandstone. The sun finally broke through the clouds further brightening the blue water, matching our enlightened perspective.

The next section of trail seemed deserted from Boora Point to Magic Point, and it felt like a simultaneously peaceful and exciting wonderland. It was here we became adventurers instead of intruders. We purposefully strode around the point, gazing into the distance for whales, and clambering around the abandoned cement structures. A place with such incredible ocean outlooks is almost guaranteed to be crowded on the weekend. However, only a scant few couples sat  appreciating the seascape, not enough to detract the slightest from our “First Explorers” experience.

Perhaps, the guide book’s rifle range warning would discourage most would-be adventurers, especially after the golf courses. We, however,  decided that the ANZAC part of the name meant military patrolling and perimeter. Supposedly there was a flag visible during live fire, but saw nothing. We did hear the sounds a dirt bike, with radio comms suggesting he was on patrol for hikers. After several photographs, we moved inland on to the very well marked path toward Maroubra. Safely separated from flying golf balls, the cliff edge, and the rifle range, we let CZ out of the backpack to trek.

Hiking with CZ is a joy and a challenge. She runs around examining rocks and bugs with contagious glee and excitement, and demonstrates so much pride in carrying herself along the trail. However, her favorite hiking is stair reps on the long, rock-hewn stairs, and up or down, she wants to climb them solo (or as she says: “no hands”).

Intellectually, we understand that encouraging walking and increasing her distance, allows us to go on longer future family hikes. (For the sake of JZ’s back, there is a weight-limit on backpack rides.) However, in the moment, it is easier, and faster, to answer her cries for freedom with promises of the next beach, rather than let her roam free.

On this hike, we put aside our watches, impatience, and rumbling stomachs to let her walk as far as she desired. In the end, she walked just under 2km – which is quite a trek for those adorably chubby, little legs! She did require constant shepherding and redirection because stairs are fun for toddlers.

The paths became increasingly crowded as we approached the beach, but everyone we (slowly) passed was amiable. The hunger overwhelmed us, and JZ ultimately swept CZ into the backpack for a quick jaunt to Maroubra. We arrived at Maroubra beach at 4:00pm, on a Sunday, which limited our dining options. Many cafes had long closed from lunch, and dinner establishments were almost open. Scanning our favorite restaurant rating apps, we quickly chose  El Toro, for Spanish tapas and pizza. We ordered an exceptional amount of food, and left more than satisfied with our decisions.

JZ and I high fived when our return bus arrived and we had more than enough space to sit down. We sank into the bus seats with exhaustion from the day and pride that we finished the hike. While we will never repeat La Perouse to Malabar, the Malabar to Maroubra merits a return trip.

Know Before You Go – Maroubra Beach Walk

• Distance: approximately 4.5km one way
• Public transport to Malabar beach is limited, make it a round trip from Maroubra if you are taking the bus. There is parking available at both beaches.
• Officially, the path around the Malabar Headlands is not open. However, when we walked this section, it was not under construction and we felt safe exploring.
• Keep an eye out for the rifle warning flag and stick to the path once past the headlands.
• Bathrooms are water are available at Malabar and Maroubra beach
• Cafes in Malabar are limited, but abundant in Maroubra. We really want to check out this place in Maroubra.